On the 20th of January Ulyana Sergeenko brought an impressive show to Paris Haute Couture 2020. It was a fancy mix of childish naivety full of kitties and sparkles, but also – traditionally erotic approach by Dita von Teese. “A cocktail of moonlight and wine” as Billy’s Jazz Band could name it, was presented in all its splendor and finished by inordinate accessories. And that was an apple for our eyes. So we open 2020 with a fashion review. This is a true alco-art and triumph union of bar and couture culture. Let’s go!
HAUTE COUTURE
Let’s get the hang of the notions. Haute couture – is a protected name that might be used by quite few companies that strictly correspond to certain standards. Haute Couture status might be obtained from the only one establishment – Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture. It was founded by a great couturier Charles Frederick Worth in Paris in 1868 in order to union fashion salons and propose customers original products. Also to protect products from being copied. Highly strict criterias for the members were presented in 1945. In order to be a part of the Syndicate and use “haute couture” in their marketing, companies must follow several rules:
- to make designs for private customers;
- to have an atelier in Paris with at least 15 employees;
- to have at least 20 full-time technical specialists in one atelier;
- twice a year (in January and in July) to present new collection of day and evening gowns with at least 50 pieces.
Most of haute couture dresses are unique and created in a single piece. They go to celebrities to show off at the red carpets or travel around the world as a part of exhibitions. They are also acquired by collectors of fashion designs or super rich people just to wear them few times.
Some curious numbers
- Before the WWII there were moreover than 200 members of the Syndicate. In the modern world of fast fashion this status is affordable for little more than 30 fashion houses.
- A haute couture atelier has professionals of the most rare areas like master of feathers, magister of laces, expert of sparkles, etc. It might take more than 700 hours for them to finish one gown.
- It is only 2000 customers in the whole world who can afford haute couture. And every year this number shortens. Pieces from this collections make around 1% of turnover in luxury industry.
- Most of the customers live in India, Brazil, China and Russia.
From Ulyana with love
Ulyana Sergeenko is known as a queen of Russian couture. Europe felt totally in love with her “a la Russe” style. After the premiere in 2011, it took Sergeenko 3-4 years to become a star of fashion capitals – Paris, London and Milan.
Ulyana Sergeenko Fashion House was founded in 2011 in Moscow. By the moment it is a member of Syndicale de la Haute Couture. And it is the only Russian brand, that has an official haute couture status at the Fashion Week in Paris.
All the products of the brand (clothes, shoes, bags and accessories) are manufactured at one of the largest Moscow ateliers. Craftsmanship and technical knowledge have defined Ulyana’s work from the beginning. Ulyana Sergeenko collaborates with highly skilled ateliers from Russia and former Soviet republics, helping them to preserve their precious knowledge in the process. Within the last years, Ulyana Sergeenko has been working with around seventy different ateliers and craftsmen including lace makers from Yelets, Vologda and Krestsy.
KITTIES, SPARKLES AND BAR
The show by Ulyana Sergeenko SS2020 in Paris – airy and slightly provocative, with hints of doll-chick and deliberately tricky. Among the models one could spot Ornella Muti, Coco Rocha and Dita von Teese. Models are girls, who have just started their adult lives. And it doesn’t matter if they are 20 or 50 yo.
The show was staged as a walk from the stairs to the bar counter colored in pink. A cute play by Dita von Teese and bartenders who moved in rhythms of soundtrack. All this resembled a cocktail for a pretty girl, a popular and well-spun thing. Probably some mixologists despise it, but common people adore.
Money and alcohol in a doll house with a doll bar get here a different meaning. Everything is nice, attractive and sweet. Banknotes turn to bois, glasses – to hats and bags. Add some sparkles and kitties all over. You can find them at bras, diademas, end elsewhere. Because, first of all, it looks charming. This is like we are finished with our teenage and can afford anything, but still want to stay kitty-baby-dolls.
And who can prevent that? No one. So let it be!
Thanks for the pics
